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Spinola Bay, St Julian's: What to See, Eat and Expect

Neighborhood · St Julian's

Spinola Bay, St Julian's: What to See, Eat and Expect

Spinola Bay is St Julian's small fishing harbour, lined with restaurants and bars rather than sand. Here is what it is like, how to reach it and where to eat.

By Honeystone Isles Editorial
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Spinola Bay, St Julian's: a candid guide to the harbour

Spinola Bay is the small horseshoe harbour at the centre of St Julian's, and it is best treated as an evening destination rather than a beach. You come here to eat at water-level terraces, walk the promenade and photograph the moored boats, not to get into the sea. This guide covers what the bay is like, how to reach it, where to eat and who it suits, and you can compare it with the wider St Julian's Neighbourhoods: 6 Area Guides.

What Spinola Bay actually is

The bay is a narrow, enclosed inlet with the coast road wrapped around it, ringed by restaurants, bars and apartment blocks. Brightly painted luzzu and kajjik fishing boats are moored in the middle, which is why the water inside stays calm enough to keep them there. The inner end is lined with restaurant terraces right at the water's edge, while the outer arms are seawall and rock.

Traditional fishing boats still line the bay against a backdrop of modern buildings, restaurants and bars along the waterfront. That mix is the appeal: a working harbour edge rather than a manufactured resort front.

Luzzu boats and the quayside at Spinola Bay in St Julian's.
Luzzu boats and the quayside at Spinola Bay in St Julian's. Photo: Txllxt TxllxT, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons · Photo source · License

Why you should not plan to swim here

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The bay has no beach, and its edge is quay and seawall with no steps or ladders meant for entering the water. Moored boats and moving harbour traffic make swimming here a poor idea even though the water is monitored as official bathing water.

For a swim, walk roughly 15 minutes to the sand at St George's Bay, or head the other way along the Sliema promenade to the rocks at Balluta Bay and Exiles Bay. If you want a beach on the doorstep, this is the wrong bay for you.

The LOVE sculpture and the promenade

On the promenade stands the LOVE sculpture, its letters set upside down so the word reads correctly in the reflection when the water is still. It is one of the most photographed spots in St Julian's, and people attach padlocks to it.

The promenade runs seamlessly towards Sliema, which makes it good for a long walk, a jog or a cycle rather than a short stop. Come back in the evening if you want the light on the water.

Layout and walking routes

Spinola Bay sits on the coast road between Sliema and Paceville, so the simplest approach on foot is along the waterfront from Balluta or Sliema. Portomaso's tower and marina sit just beyond the northern headland, which gives you a clear marker for the direction of travel.

Within the bay itself, everything is close: the inner terraces, the outer seawall and the promenade take minutes to cross. Plan your evening around a slow loop rather than a checklist of sights.

The LOVE monument at Spinola Bay in St Julian's.
The LOVE monument at Spinola Bay in St Julian's. Photo: Txllxt TxllxT, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons · Photo source · License

Spinola Palace and its front garden

Spinola Palace is the summer residence a Knight of St John began building on the hill above the bay in 1688, and the bay takes its name from it. It is now barely visible from the water behind newer buildings, and it is not open to the public.

Its public front garden is a quiet spot just up the hill, and it is the part of the palace you can actually use. Treat the palace as a name on the map and the garden as the stop.

Getting there from Valletta and Sliema

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Buses from Valletta run directly to Spinola Bay on routes such as 13, 14 and 16, with the ride taking around 25 to 30 minutes depending on traffic. If you are staying in Sliema, walking the promenade to St Julian's is the easier choice.

Driving is the weaker option: parking around the bay and in central St Julian's is very limited and the area is busy in the evenings. Use a paid car park nearby or arrive by bus.

Buses running along the Sliema to St Julian's front stop nearby, and the walk from Balluta or Sliema along the promenade is pleasant in its own right.

Eating and drinking around the bay

The waterfront mix runs from Mediterranean kitchens and upscale restaurants to Irish pubs, Asian food, fast food and ice cream parlours, all close together. In summer the restaurants fill quickly in the evening with locals, expats and visitors hunting tables with a view of the bay.

A cluster of named places sits within a few minutes of the water, including MÉZ Restaurant and Cocktail Bar, Two Buoys and Gululu, which serves Maltese cooking. Check current opening details with each directly before you rely on a table.

For a drink after dinner, cocktail bars and pubs line the waterfront, from chilled lounges to late-night venues. Clubbing sits in Paceville rather than the bay itself, which keeps Spinola calmer than the streets just to the north.

Who the bay suits and who it does not

Spinola Bay suits evening diners, strollers and photographers who want harbour views and a short walk back to a Sliema or St Julian's base. It does not suit anyone who wants sand, easy sea access or a quiet daytime stop.

Spinola's central position within St Julian's means the surrounding districts are all short hops away. Swieqi: What the Area Is Like and What Suits a Stay and Pembroke, Malta, further out, give you a quieter base if the harbour bustle is not what you want at night; compare them through the St Julian's Neighbourhoods: 6 Area Guides before you pick an area.

Walking-distance bases around the bay

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Bases within walking distance of the harbour put the waterfront terraces and the promenade on your doorstep, so you can leave the car behind.

Given limited parking and busy evenings, a base within walking distance of the bay saves you the drive and the search for a space.

Is Spinola Bay worth an evening?

Yes, for one evening built around a waterside meal and a walk along the promenade to see the boats and the LOVE sculpture. Skip it if you want a swim or a beach, and head to St George's Bay or the Balluta rocks instead.

Explore more St Julian's guides

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Spinola Bay nice?

It is a small, photogenic harbour with restaurant terraces at the water's edge and fishing boats moored in the middle. The best time is the evening, when the waterfront bars and restaurants fill up.

How far is Spinola Bay from Valletta?

Buses from Valletta on routes 13, 14 and 16 take around 25 to 30 minutes depending on traffic, and stop near the bay.

Can you swim at Spinola Bay?

No. There is no beach and no easy way into the water, so walk about 15 minutes to St George's Bay or head to the rocks at Balluta and Exiles.

Sources

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