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North Malta: Mellieħa, St Paul's Bay and the North-West Coast

North Malta: Mellieħa, St Paul's Bay and the North-West Coast

The quick version

North Malta covers Mellieħa, St Paul's Bay, Buġibba and Qawra, the rural lanes around Mġarr and the Comino crossing from Ċirkewwa. Here is how to plan a day.

10 min readBy Honeystone Isles Editorial
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North Malta takes a day if you pick four stops: Mellieħa village and its sanctuary, the coast and countryside around Mellieħa Bay and Majjistral, the resort front at Buġibba and Qawra, and the rural lanes around Mġarr. The area rewards planning because it is not one sight but a string of places spread along the island's northern tip, with slow minor roads between them. This guide sets out what each stop involves, how the Comino crossing from Ċirkewwa fits around it, and what to drop when time or midday heat bites.

What north Malta covers

The northern region runs from Mellieħa on the tip back through St Paul's Bay, which takes in Buġibba and Qawra, and inland to Mġarr. Mellieħa sits on the northern coast and St Paul's Bay has become one of Malta's favourite holiday spots, with Buġibba as its largest resort and a front stretching around Qawra Point and into Salina Bay. Treat these as separate stops rather than one continuous town: the resort front is dense and walkable, while the country between it and Mġarr is open.

For the rest of the island, the wider list of things to do in Malta puts the north alongside Valletta, the Three Cities and the south, so you can judge how much time the north deserves against those. A common mistake is to bolt Mellieħa onto a Valletta day; the two sit at opposite ends of the island and each needs its own half-day at least.

The façade of Selmun Palace near Mellieħa.
The façade of Selmun Palace near Mellieħa. Photo: Continentaleurope, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons · Photo source · License

Mellieħa village and the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Mellieħa

Mellieħa is the natural first stop from the south, and the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Mellieħa is the landmark to aim for in the village itself. The church anchors the centre, so park once, walk the village, and use it as your orientation point before heading down towards the coast. Allow around an hour for the village and sanctuary together; longer if you want a coffee in the square.

Dress for a church visit rather than a beach day if you intend to go inside: shoulders and knees covered is the practical default across Malta's churches. There is no published visitor timetable here that you can rely on, so check the notice at the door on the day and build the rest of the route around it rather than the other way round.

Rocky coastline near Mellieħa in northern Malta.
Rocky coastline near Mellieħa in northern Malta. Photo: Sebastian Sikora, CC BY 2.0, via Flickr · Photo source · License

Mellieħa's coastline and countryside

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Below the village, Mellieħa Bay gives you the sandy coastline the north is known for, and the Corinthia guide describes the area as combining beaches, archaeological sites and rolling countryside. Inland from the coast, Majjistral Nature and History Park protects a stretch of coast with sandy bays, clay slopes and limestone cliffs, and the park carries historical architecture and ruins as well as landscape. That makes it the best single stop for the rural side of the north.

Walking in the park is exposed, with little shade along the cliff edges, so go early or late and carry water. If your interest is the island's wartime and defensive architecture rather than its coast, the Victoria Lines follow the Great Fault escarpment across the island and were finished in 1897; the section nearest the north is a serious walk rather than a quick stop, so budget for it separately.

St Paul's Bay, Buġibba and Qawra

St Paul's Bay is where the north becomes a resort: the old town has its architecture and bay views, while Buġibba and Qawra are known for rocky coves, coastal promenades and a busy front. This is the least rural part of the day and the easiest place to eat, with restaurants and bars overlooking the water. The Corinthia guide names Tarragon, a seafood restaurant above the harbour, and Venus for modern fusion, but check menus and prices at the door rather than planning around a figure.

Use the promenade as your walk here; it links the coves and gives you bay views without a car. If you are weighing the north against other bases, the honest trade-off is that Buġibba and Qawra feel built-up and commercial compared with Mellieħa village or the lanes around Mġarr, so treat them as a place to eat and stroll rather than the scenic highlight.

Mġarr and the temples at Skorba and Ta' Ħaġrat

Mġarr is the quiet counterweight to the resort front: a small town surrounded by valleys, vineyards and farmland, with prehistoric sites on its edge. The Skorba and Ta' Ħaġrat temples sit here, and both are worth a short stop if you are already passing rather than a substitute for the main temple sites elsewhere on the island.

Give the temples half an hour to an hour and keep them as an inland pause between the coast and Ċirkewwa. Opening arrangements for individual temple sites are not something to assume, so confirm before you build the day around them, and have the Mġarr lanes as a fallback if a site turns out to be closed.

Ċirkewwa and the Comino crossing

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Ċirkewwa is the harbour at the northern tip where boats leave for Comino, a crossing the Corinthia guide puts at about 20 minutes. Comino covers 3.5 square kilometres and the boat lands you within easy reach of the water, which is why the crossing is popular. Treat this as a separate half-day rather than a stop on a road route: you lose the morning or afternoon to the boat and the island.

If a boat day is the point of your trip, compare operators and departure points before committing, since the crossing is only one of several ways to get on the water around the islands. Sailing times and fares change with the season and are not fixed details you can plan a tight connection around, so confirm them with the operator when you book.

Driving and buses in the north

A car makes the north far easier, but hire small: minor roads are narrow, passing places are limited and delays are frequent, and even hotel car parks can be tight for a large vehicle. Driving from the Valletta area to Mellieħa is a short run in distance terms, and the roads Google Maps picks can shrink to country lanes barely wide enough for two cars.

Without a car, the north is a bus-and-walking day with fewer stops, and you should expect to wait. Build in slack rather than chaining Mellieħa, Mġarr and Ċirkewwa back to back, and check routes and times with the operator on the day; timetables are not something to guess from a map.

A workable one-day north Malta route

Start at Mellieħa village and the sanctuary, then drop to the coast for Mellieħa Bay or a walk into Majjistral while it is still cool. Move inland to Mġarr and the Skorba and Ta' Ħaġrat temples around midday, when shade and a slower pace suit the heat, and finish at St Paul's Bay, Buġibba and Qawra for the promenade and an early dinner. That is four stops and a full day without the Comino boat.

If you are short of time, cut the temples first and keep Mellieħa plus the St Paul's Bay front; if you want the boat, drop everything else and give Comino the half-day. The order also matters for light: the coast faces the water and the cliffs catch the evening, which is why the sunset hours are worth reserving for the western side of the day.

Midday heat and the coast-versus-inland trade-off

The north's sights are largely outdoors, from the cliffs of Majjistral to the temple stones at Mġarr, and there is little shade between them. Plan the exposed stops for the morning and late afternoon, keep the middle of the day for the village, a church interior or a long lunch on the St Paul's Bay front, and carry more water than you think you need.

The genuine trade-off is coast against inland. The coast gives you the bay, the promenade and the boat harbour; inland gives you Mġarr's farmland and the temples, and it is quieter. Trying to do both at midday in summer means rushing the best parts, so pick one side for the hot hours and leave the other for the edges of the day.

Where north Malta fits with the rest of the island

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The north works best as its own day, kept clear of Valletta and Mdina, which deserve separate visits. If you are grouping the island by area, the Best Places to Visit in Malta, Grouped by Area guide shows how the north slots in alongside the harbour cities and the south, so you can avoid criss-crossing the island.

Pair the north with Gozo only if you have several days; the crossing to Comino is a half-day, and Gozo needs more. Otherwise keep the north as a single unhurried day and use the island's other regions for their own strengths.

Is north Malta worth a full day?

Yes, if you want a day that combines a village church, coast and quiet inland lanes in the north. Plan four stops, drive small or accept fewer stops by bus, and keep the Comino boat as a separate half-day rather than squeezing it in.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a car to see north Malta?

A car makes the scattered stops far easier, especially Mellieħa, Mġarr and Ċirkewwa, but hire a small one: minor roads are narrow and passing places are limited. Without a car, plan fewer stops and check bus routes and times with the operator on the day.

How long does the Comino crossing take from Ċirkewwa?

The Corinthia guide puts the boat trip from Ċirkewwa to Comino at about 20 minutes, with the island covering 3.5 square kilometres. Treat the outing as a half-day once you add waiting, landing and the return, and confirm sailing times and fares with the operator when you book.

Are the Skorba and Ta' Ħaġrat temples worth a stop?

They make a short, quiet stop in the lanes around Mġarr if you are already in the north, and the Corinthia guide lists both as prehistoric sites there. They are not a replacement for the main temple sites elsewhere, so keep them to half an hour to an hour and confirm access before you build the day around them.

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